Cooking On Pennies VI: The Bean Book by Steve Sando 🌞

CALIFORNIA-STYLE LIMA BEAN SUCCOTASH

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

If you don’t have the burden of Southern traditions, there’s a good chance
this salad will be a favorite, even for those with the idea that they don’t like
lima beans. But heirloom limas are different. In summer, when corn, herbs,
and tomatoes are abundant and at their best, you’ll crave this combination
of flavors. Bacon is great, but pancetta can make this salad even better.
We prefer this salad with cherry tomatoes, but any ripe, in-season tomatoes
will do.

2 tablespoons olive oil or butter
4 ounces pancetta or bacon, cubed or chopped (optional)
½ white onion, minced
1 to 2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, seeded and minced
2 cups corn kernels, from 2 to 3 ears of corn
2 cups cooked, drained Large White Lima beans or baby lima beans
1½ cups chopped tomatoes (about 1 pound)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Fresh lime juice or pineapple vinegar to taste
½ cup thinly sliced fresh cilantro, basil, or mint (or a mixture)
3 tablespoons Mexican Cotija or feta cheese (optional)

In a medium skillet over medium-low heat, warm the olive oil or butter. If
using pancetta: Cook the pancetta until it’s browned and chewy, 10 to 15
minutes. If using bacon: Omit the oil or butter and cook, stirring, over
medium-low until the fat has rendered and the bacon is crisp, about 10
minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pancetta or bacon and set aside.

Add the onion and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the chiles and
corn, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is tender, about 5
minutes. Gently stir in the beans, tomatoes, and pancetta (if using); cook until
heated through, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

While still warm, transfer the mixture to a platter. Add lime juice to taste,
stirring gently to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Top with the
fresh herbs and cheese (if desired) and serve.

VARIATION: TRADITIONAL SOUTHERN SUCCOTASH

In the American South, succotash is commonly made with fresh baby limas,
bacon, tomatoes, corn, and basil. To make a more traditional Southern
version, use bacon and omit the fresh chile and Cotija cheese. Garnish with
fresh basil.

From "The Bean Book"
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/203608481-the-bean-book

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BIG WHITE BEANS WITH ROASTED PEPPERS AND PEPITAS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is a mixed pepper salad with goat cheese and beans for a little
creaminess and roasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) for a meaty texture and
nutty flavor.

Roasted peppers aren’t hard to make, but there’s no crime in having a jar of
prepared red peppers in your pantry. Jarred poblano peppers don’t seem to
be a thing, but once you get the hang of roasting peppers, it’s no bother.
2 cups roasted poblano chile strips (from 1 large or 2 medium poblanos)

2 cups roasted red bell peppers (store-bought or *roasted),
cut into squares
½ white onion, finely chopped
3 to 4 cups cooked, drained big white beans, such as Rancho Gordo Royal
Corona or Ayocote Blanco
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, preferably Rancho Gordo Oregano Indio
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste
Pineapple vinegar or other mild vinegar, or fresh lime juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup roasted pepitas
¼ cup crumbled fresh goat cheese (optional)

In a large serving bowl, combine the poblano peppers, roasted red bell
peppers, onion, and beans. Add the oregano, crushing it between your
fingers. Stir well. Season to taste with olive oil, pineapple vinegar, and salt
and pepper.

Just before serving, sprinkle the dish with roasted pepitas and goat cheese,
if desired.

*ROASTED PEPPERS

The technique for roasting peppers in Italy and Mexico is almost the same.
In Mexico, you’d roast mostly poblano peppers, and in Italy, it seems red
peppers are the most common.

Roasted peppers add color and flavor to bean salads, such as Big White
Beans with Roasted Peppers and Pepitas (this page) or Garbanzo Salad with
Spanish Chorizo and Red Peppers (this page). You can also puree them in
sauces (see this page) or drape them over beans on toast (see this page).

Roasting on a gas range: Roast the peppers directly on the grate over
medium-high heat, using flameproof tongs to turn the peppers as they char.
It’s best to keep them moving. The goal is to char the skins, which will cook
the pepper perfectly. You can also roast the peppers on a hot cast-iron skillet
or steel comal, turning the peppers as the skins char.

Roasting in the oven: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with a
Silpat mat, parchment paper, or aluminum foil, then add whole peppers and
roast them for 20 to 30 minutes, turning occasionally, until the skins are
charred all over.

Roasting with a handheld burner: If you are obsessive (and what’s wrong
with that?), consider a handheld butane torch, like the Bernzomatic model.
The Bernzomatic is also great for crème brûlée. You can roast using your
preferred method and then use the handheld torch to go into the crevices
that you may have missed, especially if you’re roasting on a pan or in the
oven.

Once your peppers or chiles are roasted, steam them to help release the
skins. A lot of recipes will suggest a plastic bag, but the idea of hot peppers
in plastic is unappealing. Hot plastic is always off-putting. You can let the
peppers rest for about 20 minutes in a paper bag, rolled at the top to keep
the steam in, or simply place the peppers in a mixing bowl and cover them
with a large dinner plate.

After 20 minutes, scrape off the skins, pull open the peppers, and remove
the seeds and stems. Chop and use as desired. Our favorite is to let them
luxuriate in good olive oil

From "The Bean Book"
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/203608481-the-bean-book

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WHITE BEAN AND CABBAGE MINESTRONE

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This is the kind of soup that your overflowing CSA vegetable subscription
box has been begging for. Just as Marcella Hazan taught us in her seminal
cookbook, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, it’s about using what’s on
hand, and minestrone soup and beans go together perfectly. We love using
the beans we named after Marcella herself. This recipe includes cabbage
and potatoes, so it’s substantial and comforting.

⅓ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) butter
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
3 celery stalks, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon gold, peeled and diced
2 to 3 cups thinly shredded savoy cabbage, green cabbage, or Tuscan kale
2 zucchini (about 8 ounces), diced
½ cup trimmed and chopped green beans
4 cups vegetable or beef broth
1 to 2 cups bean broth or water
½ cup canned whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
Parmesan rind
3 large basil leaves
Salt to taste
1½ cups cooked, drained white cannellini beans, bean
broth reserved
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Pepper to taste

In a large stockpot over medium-low heat, warm the olive oil and butter.
Add the onion and cook until it softens and becomes pale gold, about 10
minutes.

Add the carrots and celery and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and
potatoes and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the cabbage and cook for 5
minutes. Add the zucchini and green beans and cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the vegetable broth, 1 cup of the bean broth, the tomatoes, cheese rind,
and basil. Salt very lightly. Stir thoroughly, increase the heat, and bring to a
boil. Cover the pot, decrease the heat, and simmer for about 2½ hours,
stirred occasionally, until the cabbage is silky and the zucchini is partially
disintegrated. Add more bean broth if needed.

Stir in the beans and cook for 30 minutes. Just before serving, remove the
cheese rind. Swirl in the grated cheese and season with salt and pepper.

VARIATION: SPRING MINESTRONE

For a “green” spring minestrone, omit the tomatoes, zucchini, and green
beans. Add ½ cup diced asparagus and ½ cup fresh peas when you add the
beans

From "The Bean Book"
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/203608481-the-bean-book


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SOPA TARASCA

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is a simple and classic soup from Michoacán, Mexico. There are
actually two versions of Sopa Tarasca, but one is very complicated, and this
one clearly has roots with the Purepecha people who are indigenous to the
area.

Frying little strips of corn tortillas might seem fussy or unnecessary, but
they really provide body and taste great. Don’t skip them!

3 ancho chiles, seeded and stemmed, one halved and two cut into narrow strips
1 pound plum tomatoes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ white onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 cups cooked bayo or Flor de Mayo beans, or Pinto beans, bean
broth reserved
3 to 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
Safflower or grapeseed oil for frying
2 day-old corn tortillas, cut into thin strips
½ cup crumbled queso fresco or other semi-hard white cheese
Sour cream or crema for serving
Fresh cilantro leaves for serving

Set a large, heavy skillet or comal over medium-high heat. Place the ancho
halves in the skillet and cook for a few seconds per side, just enough to
release the aroma. Transfer them to a small bowl, cover with boiling water,
and let rehydrate for 10 minutes, then drain. Place the tomatoes in the skillet
and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until blackened and soft, 10 to
15 minutes. Remove the tomatoes from the skillet and chop. Set aside.

In the skillet over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion,
garlic, and tomatoes and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Let cool
slightly. In a blender, combine the vegetable mixture with the rehydrated
ancho chile and blend until smooth. Transfer to a soup pot.

In the blender, puree the beans and their broth, adding some of the chicken
broth if necessary to keep the blades moving. Transfer to the pot. Bring to a
simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add the
chicken broth, oregano, and salt. Cook for 10 minutes to allow the flavors
to blend. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Meanwhile, pour the safflower oil to a depth of about ½ inch in a small,
heavy skillet. Set the skillet over medium-high heat and heat until the oil is
shimmering. Fry the tortilla strips, turning with tongs, until crisp and
medium brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to a paper towel. Fry the ancho
chile strips until they puff up and emit a spicy aroma, 2 or 3 seconds.
Remove quickly as they can become bitter if overcooked.

Put a little cheese, a few chile strips, and some tortilla strips in each bowl.
Pour in the hot soup. Serve with sour cream and cilantro.

From "The Bean Book"
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/203608481-the-bean-book


Legumes are not the question, they may be the answer!

Previous Cooking On Pennies Posts:

https://www.democraticunderground.com/1157154212
https://www.democraticunderground.com/1157154092
https://www.democraticunderground.com/1157154031
https://www.democraticunderground.com/1157153993
https://www.democraticunderground.com/1157153967